Jag rear hub carrier
Just recently I have noticed a clunk when selecting gears on my Jaguar xj6 XJ40. I checked everything and eventually narrowed it down
to a shot bearing (turned out to be both) on the drivers side hub carrier. Not the hub bearing itself, which i replaced earlier, but the
roller bearings on the hub fulcrum.
I decided to replace them and this is a quick write up of how I did it for anyone else who wants to do the same thing.
you will need the new bearings (they come with the seal attached) and a long breaker bar and 27mm, 22mm and 15mm 8mm sockets
and some steel wire for the caliper bolts. the book calls for you to remove the axle shaft nut but I didn't bother. I also did not remove the handbrake cable as mine was damaged and is the next thing to be replaced, however as it turns out its not critical to remove it anyway.
jack up the car and support the back end on jack stands etc so it is safely supported.
remove the road wheel and put that under the body too for extra safety
undo the brake caliper 15mm socket after cutting off the steel safety wire between the bolts. tie the caliper out of the way
remove the set screw holding on the rotor and back off the star adjuster to loosen the parking brakes (turn the big hole in the hub to the top and you will see the star adjuster through the hole. on the drivers side ratchet the star arms downward to loosen on the passenger side the opposite (USA cars)
once the brakes have been backed off remove the rotor and then remove the speed abs sensor (8mm socket i needed a 1/4 inch drive to get in there)
tie back the sensor.
at this point you can undo the bolts (22mm) on the pivot shaft, the shaft is probably rusted in the carrier tube so you should get both off with no problems. If you can only get one off or the pivot shaft spins you are lucky and the pivot shaft is loose in the carrier and just pull it out whilst not allowing the hub to drop. If both nuts undo then once they are both off the shaft is rusted in the carrier tube. take both washers and put them on the rear side (the side at the boot end) and tighten the bolt. the shaft will slide out a little - grab more washers and repeat. when you have a few inches out it will start to slide out easily.
you should now have the hub detached from the wishbone arm and the bearings and seals exposed. they wont fall off as the bearings and distance shims will be rusted together on the carrier tube. knock the carrier tube out of the distance shim (i found a 3/8 drive extension drive end is perfect) and remove one bearing race, tap the carrier tube through the hub fulcrum and remove the opposite race and distance shim in a vice.
on mine I had to cut out the outer race as i could not move it with either my slide hammer or my blind bearing puller
I cut both outer races out with my dremmel tool with a tile cutting high carbon steel rasp. cuts through bearings in a minute or 2
My bearings showed intense brinelling when removed and the grooves accounted for my 1/4 inch play in the hub that was causing the clunking
when i shifted between gears
see the wavy edge on the lower (cut side) of the race
there was minimal damage to the hub by cutting the race out and the seal would easily cover it
the pivot shaft and carrier tube before and after cleaning, I used my bench grinder's wire wheel
the race cleaned, washed out with kerosene and ready for the new race
the new bearing comes with the seal attached and looks like this before packing with grease
the new outer race installed
the bearing packed and on the cleaned up carrier shaft with the distance shim installed (final preload 3thou)
the pivot shaft run through the system and all bolted down torque 75 ftlb
problem solved no more clunk and a much smoother drive